30 May 2000

Pate de Foie Gras

Following the announcement that The Duke and Duchess of Hamilton are boycotting the top Edinburgh department store Jenners, which has refused to stop selling paté de foie gras, we take a look at what the fuss is about. The duchess, who has held an account with the store for the last three years said: "I don't particularly want to shop in any store that serves pate de fois gras. I feel it is something everybody ought to give up.. We won't go back until they stop serving pate de fois gras. It is obtained under very cruel conditions and I think it should be withdrawn from all shops and restaurants which stock it." So What is pate de foie gras? Pate de foie gras means "pate from fat livers" -- the livers of force-fed geese and ducks. Production of pate de foie gras is banned in the UK. However, it is imported from other countries. France is the largest producer, followed by Hungary and Israel. Up to the last few weeks of their lives, the birds are kept free-range and are fed normally. When they are four months old, they are put into tiny pens indoors. Twelve birds may be kept in a small space just 1 metre by 2 metres. They are kept like this because if they were allowed out they would use up energy exercising. A bird is fed by being held between the operator's legs with its neck extended and a metal tube up to 40cm (16in) long forced down its throat. With a clip holding the head still, a motor turns a screw which forces the food down the bird's throat and into the stomach. Both operator's hands are free to massage the food down the throat. On some farms an elastic band is put around the bird's neck to stop it retching up the food. The birds are fed 3-4 times a day. 60 birds an hour can be fed this way, i.e., one a minute. Force-fed birds suffer from terrible diseases and injuries, including heart disorders, tearing of the intestines and rupture of liver cell membranes. The normal liver of a duck or goose weighs around 120 grammes and is reddish in colour. The force-fed bird's liver is yellow, shiny and greasy in appearance and may weigh up to 1300 grammes. In a reply from Jenners to the duke and duchess, Mr Douglas-Millar wrote: "As long as demand exists for this, or indeed any product, by our valued customers, we feel we have an obligation to continue to make it available in our range of merchandise." Hopefully we have just helped him with his problem.